Monday, 5 March 2012

another story...

I need to tell you also about Karla!

Karla is the reason I am in Esteli.  Last year my family hosted two Canada World Youth volunteers - Maureen from Ontario and Karla from Esteli, Nicaragua.  It was an amazing experience for my family, and I think also for Maureen and Karla.

At that time I was beginning to plan for my sabbatical and knew I wanted to travel to Central America and study Spanish.  Karla's family immediately invited me to their home.

Karla's family, like Alberto's, does not have money.  They do, however, have a comfortable home and very generous hearts.  Karla told me yesterday that she was born very very sick.   In order to get the necessary medication for Karla to survive, her parents needed to sell their home.  Life has not been easy for them... however despite the difficulties, Karla worked hard in school.  She made it through high school and, with the help of bursaries and scholarships, was able to attend university.   She has completed 4 years of study and has now completed the requirements to be an accountant.  Her graduation ceremony will be later this spring.

Karla is an amazing young woman.  She is incredibly strong, stubborn, outspoken and independent.  Her dream is to move to Canada... be a successful business woman... to have her own home, car and to one day travel.   Cultural and family expectations are that she will meet a nice man, get married and have babies. 

Karla is very afraid for her future.  She says there is no opportunity for her here.  She has landed her first job as an accountant in another city.  She earns 3,500 cordobas per month.  This is roughly $250.   So far she has managed to save $50.   She needs about another $9,550.00 to come to Canada.   Her fear is that she will never get away... that she will end up doing what is expected of her and be forced to give up her dream.

I've tried to reassure her... to encourage her to hold on to her dream and what is important to her.  I say the words of encouragement but it is hard to feel them in my heart.  What hope does she have?  How will she ever raise the money she needs?

She has asked me to help her contact the Canadian Embassy to find out what she needs to do in order to come to Canada.  Her godmother, who lives in Spain, is willing to help her financially to purchase the airfare.  I've told her I will do what I can but, I'm afraid, what I can do isn't much.   I've been to the immigration website and read the requirements.  Karla doesn't meet any of them.   She needs a job offer in Canada (how is that even possible?), lots of money, or someone to marry her.  She doesn't fit into the "refugee" category.  Her life is not in danger here... only her hope.

I've tried to talk to her about searching for places of hope in Nicaragua... surely there are women here who have managed to break from the expectations but she is unable/unwilling to hear it.   Her heart is set on Canada.

I'd really like to fix it for her... cuz that's what I like to do - fix things.   I hate having to accept the fact that I can not (and really should not) fix other people's lives.  I know that at least part of my desire to make things better is coming from that same sense of guilt and shame I spoke of yesterday.   I have taken my own freedom so much for granted.... freedom to choose where I live, what I do, who I marry.   Even the freedom to travel to Nicaragua for 2 months to learn Spanish.   My life has been and is so easy.   This seems like a funny thing to say given some of the challenges I have faced throughout my life:  childhood bullying, alcoholism, the death of my father, coming out... etc.  Somehow all of these challenges seem trivial in comparison to what I witness here every single day... and not just here but everywhere.   This isn't the first time in my life I've been hit with the reality of my privilege... every time I walk down 20th Street in Saskatoon I feel that ping of guilt.  Somehow, that guilt is easier to ignore than what I am experiencing here.  Interesting!  DANG!!  Here I am, once again, forced to face my assumptions and challenge my attitudes/beliefs.  Did I ask for another opportunity for growth?  Ugh... God seems to know what I need without even having been asked.   Sometimes I really dislike God!   Please don't tell him/her I said that!

Sunday, 4 March 2012

my heart aches...

I would love to post about my glorious excursion this weekend to the jungle... about the mountains and dense trees, about the monkeys and the amazing birds... but I will save that for another day because today I feel compelled to write about my friend Alberto.

I´m sure I have mentioned Alberto in a past post but in case I didn´t...

I met Alberto my first week in Esteli.  He came to my home to fix the lock on a door.  I was sitting on the sofa studying Spanish.  He spoke to me in Spanish which, of course, I didn´t understand.  Upon seeing the blank and somewhat panicky look on my face, he repeated his question... in English.  He had asked me what I was reading.  I told him that I had come to Esteli to learn Spanish.  He said he knew a little bit of English and that he would like to learn more but that there is no opportunity to practice.  I invited him to come later in the evening and that I would be willing to help him with English if he would be willing to help me with Spanish.

A wonderful friendship was born.

Alberto is 35 years old... married with two children.  He grew up, as most children do in Esteli, in a very poor family.  His mother has worked for many years as a nurse... his father died when Alberto was 13 years old from alcoholism.  He has two brothers and one sister.  When Alberto was about 14 years old he began working for a man building furniture.  He worked hard and learned the tricks of the trade.  Today, Alberto has his own furniture making business... the shop is located right next door to my home, providing ample opportunity for us to visit.

A few years ago, Alberto realized that the only way for him to get ahead in life was to leave Esteli.  He has always dreamed of building his own home.   He does not desire wealth, but rather just to be free of constant anxiety about money... when or if he would be able to buy food, gas, or the wood he needs to create furniture.

He made a decision to head for America... the land of opportunity.  On his first attempt, he made it as far as the Mexican border and was sent back to Nicaragua.  The second time, he paid someone from Esteli to take him.  This time he was successful and managed to make it to Atlanta where he lived and worked for two years.  During his time in Atlanta he worked installing wood flooring.  He lived in a small apartment with 10 people... sending small amounts of money home each week to help support his family.   He worked hard and managed, over a two year period, to save $10,000... a HUGE amount of money for him.  Unfortunately, he was eventually discovered by the authorities and, once again, sent back to Nicaragua.  He made an attempt to return once again, paying a man here $3,000 to take him.   I believe he was taken as far as Mexico.  From there he began walking across the desert, for the United States.  He says that he walked for 5 days... he had enough water for 2.  On the 5th day he thought he was going to die... that he would never see his family again.  Unfortunately/fortunately he was captured by the authorities once again.  Fortunately, because they gave him water, saving his life... unfortunately because it meant being sent back to Nicaragua. 

All was not lost as he still had enough money left to make a start at a decent life here.  He was able to purchase a used truck, some tools and rent a small shop to begin creating furniture.  I have visited his shop and seen the work he is doing.  He makes closets, beds, desks, doors and various other furnishings.  His work is amazing.  He earns almost no money.  I saw a closet he had made... it was gorgeous.  He was selling it for 8,000 cordobas... roughly equivalent to $400.00 dollars.  Once he paid for his supplies and paid the men working for him, he was left with about 2,000 cordabas... roughly equivalent to $100.00.  

Life is a struggle... every single day.  He has no money.  When he has work, his family eats... when he doesnt have work, they don´t.   He is very proud of his shop and the tools he uses... but they are very old and seem to me to be rather rustic.  If anything happens... if a tool breaks or his truck dies... he is totally and completely screwed.  He has no reserve.. no family to bail him out.  In fact, he is the person in his family that others come to for help AND despite his own sense of desperation, he is always willing to do what he can.  He has given what little he has to his brother, his mother and other family members.  Currently, Alberto´s uncle is in trouble with the law.  He was in jail and Alberto posted his bail... in the amount of 10,000 cordobas.   He doesn´t have to pay this unless his Uncle takes off... it is likely he will have to pay.

Recently, Alberto has started talking about heading for the United States again.  His heart breaks as he loves his family very much.  His daughter is 4 years old and his son only slightly older.  He says that if he goes there is a risk he will die or be killed.  His last experience was terrifying for him.  And yet, he doesn´t believe he has any other options.   If he wants to live his dream and find any kind of stability, he needs to go... but the cost is huge.

Alberto´s story is not much different from thousands of other people in Nicaragua... and millions of other people around the world.  The difference for me is that he is my friend.  I think about heading back to my life in Canada... to my wealth and privilege and I feel so so so guilty... and ashamed.  Ashamed of how much of my life I have spent caught up in spending money... buying stuff I don´t need.  My time in Nicaragua has been a huge huge reality check.  I am not more well off because I am special or because I deserve it or earn it... I am more well off (financially anyway) because I happened to have been born to a middle class family in Canada.. because I had the privilege of education... of a career doing what I love to do.  My life in Canada is not perfect and I have my own financial worries... but my worries in comparision to many of the people here are completely trivial.  I never worry about whether or not I can eat.  I never worry about having to leave my family and walk through the desert in hopes of making a few extra bucks. 

I am afraid for Alberto... and for his future.  I am also afraid that I will leave here, ease back into my life in Canada and forget what I have learned here.  I am afraid that I will, once again, be seduced into believing that my worth is related to how much stuff I have.... that soon I will be complaining because I can´t afford to have and do all the things I want to do.

This is what has been weighing on my heart... and taking up space in my mind.   I believe this is what God is calling me to reflect on... and to act on.  

Maybe tomorrow I will be called to reflect on the jungle experience... to feel again inspired by the absolute awesomeness of God´s creation.   Today I´m called to struggle...


Friday, 2 March 2012

what I see...

Over the past 4 weeks I have spent a considerable amount of time sitting in a chair in front of my home studying & reading (at least, that is my cover... I am actually spying on the neighbors... enjoying the Nicaragua culture).  These photos capture only a small portion of the street activity.  REMEMBER... I am in a city... a fairly large size city. 

The family dog... covered in fleas and desperate for love.   He stands by my side, every day while I'm reading, looking at me with the saddest eyes.  I've taken to scratching him with my shoe.  He is 12 years old... very old for a dog in Nicaragua.  He protects the home, standing in front all day barking when other dogs approach.

It is hard to see in this photo but this is an entire family riding on a motorcycle.  Not uncommon.  A small boy in the front, the father, the mother holding a baby.  Note the only one wearing a helmet is the father!  It is also common to see an entire family on a regular bicycle.  I had no idea 5 people could ride one bicycle.  And of course on a bicycle no one wears a helmet.

A mom and her daughter.  This woman is wearing flat shoes but most women here wear 3 inch heels all the time... with everything.  I don't know how they do it.  I wear only flat shoes and have a hard time staying upright.  The roads are uneven and there are virtually no sidewalks.  I've seen women carrying a load of something on their heads, holding the hand of their child while walking in spiked heels.  Absolutely amazing.

I love this! 

A family waiting for a taxi.

A man in his wheelchair.  How he manages to go up and down the massive hills, I have no idea! 

People walk up and down the streets selling things... mostly food.   They carry incredible loads on their heads and backs. 

This cow walked right up to me, smiled and walked away.  Totally normal here!

One of the school buses picking up the neighborhood children.  The children here all wear uniforms.  Navy slacks or skirts, white shirts and socks. 

Much activity on the streets... always!  People walking, riding bikes, motorbikes, visiting, children playing.

The neighbor kids.

There is no way to adequately capture the energy of life in photos. 

Tuesday, 21 February 2012

a few more photos

Mi amiga, Karla and I

Mi familia

A bamboo forest

breaking the rules in Nicaragua

La Cascada... the most beautiful place I have ever seen

 and the water was freakin cold

studying...
 but this was the surrounding scenery

a horse and a car... in love

my home
 my home... Bill, Bob and the serenity prayer
 my home... again

went to a baseball game... check out the view


hitched a ride to La Cascada (sorry mom)

a clown in the taxi

the kids and I.. happy happy

down with the cockroaches...

Its true!  Ive grown accustomed to the creepy little crawlers.  Ive encountered more than one in the bathroom-shower area over the past days.   Im not quite ready to invite them in for tea... but they do seem harmless enough.  The frogs on the other hand... that is a different story.

Most of my adventures here seem bathroom-toilet related.  Many I am not sharing... for which you should thank me.  However, the other night I was in the bathroom... it was dark... I was doing what I needed to do when the door opened and in came something large and black... it was coming straight for me.  Well, what was a girl to do except scream and scream I did.  The gentleman of the house rushed to my aid, turning on the lights (did I mention that I prefer to use the bathroom in the dark... ignorance is bliss).  There, in the corner, was the biggest frog I have ever seen.  Now, according to Nievez (the gentleman), this was not a large sized frog at all.  I promise, if I do see a large size frog here... I will do more than scream! 

Other than enormous frogs, cockroaches and some other very strange flying bug... the creepy things are really minimal.  This should offer some reassurance to those of you travelling to Nicaragua with me next year.  There are, however, two things that are causing some consternation:

1.  the treatment of animals.  On more than one occasion I have witnessed an animal being cruely treated.  Rocks thrown at dogs, horses left standing on concrete for hours on end and starved cats.  The other day there were three roosters tied on ropes in front of a house.   They were tied far enough to just reach each other.  The two on the outside were savagely killing the one in the centre.   Also, I saw two men... one holding a chicken adn the other a rooster.  They kept holding the two together and were amused by the rooster attacking the chicken.  I have never liked roosters and quite despise chickens, however, this broke my heart.   Yesterday I went over the deep end and burst into tears when I witnessed a man come out of his home and brutally beat his puppy with a shoe for whining.  I can not understand it.  Ive spoken with my teacher about this and she agrees it is not right but says it is 'cultural'.  I now that this is not the behaviour of the majority but it is certainly acceptable enough that these acts are committed in public without intervention. For those of you who have travelled to other parts and have had similar experiences, I would welcome your words of wisdom for coping.  I know all of this sounds terribly judgmental but the truth is, I feel terribly judgmental.

2.  the treatment of women.  Seriously.. I have been hissed at, whistled at, have had men make gross kissy faces at me and even had one guy waggle his tongue (seriously.. does anyone think that is sexy?)  I have had 3 men stop me on the street to tell me they love me.  One could find all of this flattering.. BUT...  My friend, Karla, said that all Nicaraguan men are pigs.  I think that is an exaggeration... Ive met at couple of really nice ones.   Also, apparently violence against women is extremely common here.  Domestic violence is a huge cause of death among women.  Yesterday there was a march here against violence as last week two women were murdered by their husbands.

This isn't a very cheery post... I realize... but this is what has been weighing on me.  Yes, I love the weather here... and my experience of the community as a whole has been incredibly positive... BUT... I love my country.  Canada is far from perfect and abuse and violence certain exists there as well... but it is defintely less extreme.. and less socially acceptable... than it is here.

One of the things I value most about my time here so far is the sense of community and the simplicity of life.  People here take care of each other.  Everyone knows everyone.  Neighbors are on the street visiting, sharing laughter.  Older children are caring for younger ones.  People readily offer help to one another.  It just feels so beautiful.  And life here really does feel more simple.  That could just be because I'm not overloaded with responsibility right now... but I really really do not miss the aspect of Canadian culture that demands competition and egocentricity.   Manual work is much more difficult... no washing machines, dishwashers and other fancy equipment... but as a whole the lack of all the machines and toys creates this sense of simplicity that I am really growing to love.   I love getting up at 6am... handwashing the pants, underwear and shirt I wore the day before and hanging them on the line.  Sounds crazy, I know... but it is just so satisfying somehow.

The other thing that is giving me great joy is my volunteer work at a school.  Classrooms here are wayyy different that what I am used to.  Much much less structured.  The children at this school come from incredibly poor families.  There is a food program and the children eat lunch there every day.  I am working three days a week in the afternoons.  Every day I am told that I am beautiful... I have beautiful eyes... one little girl told me I didn't look 42 (God bless her!).  They are so enthusiastic about me... they love to be with me and are very curious about my life in Canada.  I have no idea if I am making any difference at all in their lives but they are certainly touching mine.  I feel so special.  I hope I can make them feel special too.

Following this blog post, I will post another with photos.  I hope you enjoy.  If any of you are interested in emailing me, feel free.  I'm more than happy to hear from home.  My email is laurafouhse@shaw.ca.  You will get an auto response back saying Im away but I am still receiving the emails.

Once again.. blessings to you all!

Laura

Saturday, 11 February 2012

Kids make the word a brighter place

Yesterday afternoon two young men were walking by.  I was sitting outside studying.  I greeted them and smiled.  They came over to me and asked (in Spanish... which I understood) if I was studying Spanish.  With my limited Spanish I managed to figure out that one of the young men wanted to learn English.  One of them is in high school and the other in second year university (studying something to do with computors).  I asked them to wait and went inside to get all of the spanish-english study cards I had made.  I said with them for about an hour teaching pronunciation and some simple verbs and nouns.  It was SO much fun.  They were so eager to learn and it was amusing listening to them struggle with some of the English pronunciations.  In the process I learned a little more Spanish.  I was able to understand that the one guys father is currently living in the United States... making money.  I think he hasnt seen him for 4 years.  Either that or 4 months.... guess it could be 4 days too. (Im still learning).  I invited them to come back again.  I think they will.  One of them especially was very keen to learn and was doing really well.  The school Im attending also has English classes in the evening.  They do not cost much so I am thinking... if he keeps coming back... that when I leave I will pay for a couple of months of English classes for him. 

And then this morning I was sitting outside... studying again... when a young girl (probably 8 years old) came over and just stood there, looking at me.  I said hi, asked her name and told her mine.  I told her that I was studying Spanish.  Almost immediately I was completely surrounded by children.  I think eight in total.  The children in Esteli are currently on summer holidays.  They return to school on Monday.  I was able to chat with them a little... asked their names, ages (ranging from 7 to 11) and if they were happy to return to school.  In return, they asked where I was from, about my family and how long I was in Esteli.  I couldnt understand a word they were saying so I took out my electronic dictionary (on my Kindle) and asked them to spell it.  They were completely fascinated by my Kindle.  I let them put in words in Spanish and told them the corresponding words in English.  They stayed for about half an hour and asked if they could come back again.  I am currently downloading some simple English childrens books onto my Kindle to show them.  I do hope they come back (I think they will).

I was thinking that once I learned more spanish I might volunteer here in a school or something with children.  I do not think I will wait.  Spending that time with them and with the young people last night has brightened my day and opened my heart.  There is just something about children... the openness, the curiousity, the delight, the joy... that makes my word so much better.  On Monday I will explore volunteer options.  It is just what I need!

This afternoon I am going to Las Casita... an amazing garden area... to study some more.

Its a good day!

Friday, 10 February 2012

just another post...

I feel like life is settling into somewhat of a regular routine.  Up at 5 (with the roosters) I usually read or study for a couple of hours.  I shower (did I mention that there is NO hot or even warmish water).  I eat breakfast.  I go to school for 8am.  The walk to and from school is getting easier (2 mountains each way).  My leg muscles no longer ache and the blisters on my feet are starting to heel.  At school my teacher and I spend 2 hours chatting.  I use the word chatting rather lightly.  Its more like she asks me questions and I use an incredible amount of energy and force squeezing out word after word (for the first time ever I have verbal constipation).  It is, I admit, getting easier.  I have now learned how to speak in the past and future tenses.  Conversations are limited significantly when we can only talk about what is happening right now.  I sit.  I study. I drink water.  I go to the bathroom.

After school I make the trekk home for lunch.  After lunch I either have a siesta, read, study, go for a walk, study some more.  The order varies but essentially that is my day.  Soon I think I will be ready to be a bit more adventureous.  Im hoping this weekend to find something interesting to do.  Perhaps I will have something more exciting to post on Sunday... but for now... I miss my family terribly.  I even miss the annoying things (not that any of them are too annoying).  I miss having Jordans warmth and love at my side when I sleep... I miss Hopes good night hug... I even have moments of missing Meran and Mashalls constant chatter and never ending questions.  Functioning in a language that is not mine has given me such an interesting perspective on relationships and communicating. 

Until next time...  my love, as always!