Tuesday, 21 February 2012

a few more photos

Mi amiga, Karla and I

Mi familia

A bamboo forest

breaking the rules in Nicaragua

La Cascada... the most beautiful place I have ever seen

 and the water was freakin cold

studying...
 but this was the surrounding scenery

a horse and a car... in love

my home
 my home... Bill, Bob and the serenity prayer
 my home... again

went to a baseball game... check out the view


hitched a ride to La Cascada (sorry mom)

a clown in the taxi

the kids and I.. happy happy

down with the cockroaches...

Its true!  Ive grown accustomed to the creepy little crawlers.  Ive encountered more than one in the bathroom-shower area over the past days.   Im not quite ready to invite them in for tea... but they do seem harmless enough.  The frogs on the other hand... that is a different story.

Most of my adventures here seem bathroom-toilet related.  Many I am not sharing... for which you should thank me.  However, the other night I was in the bathroom... it was dark... I was doing what I needed to do when the door opened and in came something large and black... it was coming straight for me.  Well, what was a girl to do except scream and scream I did.  The gentleman of the house rushed to my aid, turning on the lights (did I mention that I prefer to use the bathroom in the dark... ignorance is bliss).  There, in the corner, was the biggest frog I have ever seen.  Now, according to Nievez (the gentleman), this was not a large sized frog at all.  I promise, if I do see a large size frog here... I will do more than scream! 

Other than enormous frogs, cockroaches and some other very strange flying bug... the creepy things are really minimal.  This should offer some reassurance to those of you travelling to Nicaragua with me next year.  There are, however, two things that are causing some consternation:

1.  the treatment of animals.  On more than one occasion I have witnessed an animal being cruely treated.  Rocks thrown at dogs, horses left standing on concrete for hours on end and starved cats.  The other day there were three roosters tied on ropes in front of a house.   They were tied far enough to just reach each other.  The two on the outside were savagely killing the one in the centre.   Also, I saw two men... one holding a chicken adn the other a rooster.  They kept holding the two together and were amused by the rooster attacking the chicken.  I have never liked roosters and quite despise chickens, however, this broke my heart.   Yesterday I went over the deep end and burst into tears when I witnessed a man come out of his home and brutally beat his puppy with a shoe for whining.  I can not understand it.  Ive spoken with my teacher about this and she agrees it is not right but says it is 'cultural'.  I now that this is not the behaviour of the majority but it is certainly acceptable enough that these acts are committed in public without intervention. For those of you who have travelled to other parts and have had similar experiences, I would welcome your words of wisdom for coping.  I know all of this sounds terribly judgmental but the truth is, I feel terribly judgmental.

2.  the treatment of women.  Seriously.. I have been hissed at, whistled at, have had men make gross kissy faces at me and even had one guy waggle his tongue (seriously.. does anyone think that is sexy?)  I have had 3 men stop me on the street to tell me they love me.  One could find all of this flattering.. BUT...  My friend, Karla, said that all Nicaraguan men are pigs.  I think that is an exaggeration... Ive met at couple of really nice ones.   Also, apparently violence against women is extremely common here.  Domestic violence is a huge cause of death among women.  Yesterday there was a march here against violence as last week two women were murdered by their husbands.

This isn't a very cheery post... I realize... but this is what has been weighing on me.  Yes, I love the weather here... and my experience of the community as a whole has been incredibly positive... BUT... I love my country.  Canada is far from perfect and abuse and violence certain exists there as well... but it is defintely less extreme.. and less socially acceptable... than it is here.

One of the things I value most about my time here so far is the sense of community and the simplicity of life.  People here take care of each other.  Everyone knows everyone.  Neighbors are on the street visiting, sharing laughter.  Older children are caring for younger ones.  People readily offer help to one another.  It just feels so beautiful.  And life here really does feel more simple.  That could just be because I'm not overloaded with responsibility right now... but I really really do not miss the aspect of Canadian culture that demands competition and egocentricity.   Manual work is much more difficult... no washing machines, dishwashers and other fancy equipment... but as a whole the lack of all the machines and toys creates this sense of simplicity that I am really growing to love.   I love getting up at 6am... handwashing the pants, underwear and shirt I wore the day before and hanging them on the line.  Sounds crazy, I know... but it is just so satisfying somehow.

The other thing that is giving me great joy is my volunteer work at a school.  Classrooms here are wayyy different that what I am used to.  Much much less structured.  The children at this school come from incredibly poor families.  There is a food program and the children eat lunch there every day.  I am working three days a week in the afternoons.  Every day I am told that I am beautiful... I have beautiful eyes... one little girl told me I didn't look 42 (God bless her!).  They are so enthusiastic about me... they love to be with me and are very curious about my life in Canada.  I have no idea if I am making any difference at all in their lives but they are certainly touching mine.  I feel so special.  I hope I can make them feel special too.

Following this blog post, I will post another with photos.  I hope you enjoy.  If any of you are interested in emailing me, feel free.  I'm more than happy to hear from home.  My email is laurafouhse@shaw.ca.  You will get an auto response back saying Im away but I am still receiving the emails.

Once again.. blessings to you all!

Laura

Saturday, 11 February 2012

Kids make the word a brighter place

Yesterday afternoon two young men were walking by.  I was sitting outside studying.  I greeted them and smiled.  They came over to me and asked (in Spanish... which I understood) if I was studying Spanish.  With my limited Spanish I managed to figure out that one of the young men wanted to learn English.  One of them is in high school and the other in second year university (studying something to do with computors).  I asked them to wait and went inside to get all of the spanish-english study cards I had made.  I said with them for about an hour teaching pronunciation and some simple verbs and nouns.  It was SO much fun.  They were so eager to learn and it was amusing listening to them struggle with some of the English pronunciations.  In the process I learned a little more Spanish.  I was able to understand that the one guys father is currently living in the United States... making money.  I think he hasnt seen him for 4 years.  Either that or 4 months.... guess it could be 4 days too. (Im still learning).  I invited them to come back again.  I think they will.  One of them especially was very keen to learn and was doing really well.  The school Im attending also has English classes in the evening.  They do not cost much so I am thinking... if he keeps coming back... that when I leave I will pay for a couple of months of English classes for him. 

And then this morning I was sitting outside... studying again... when a young girl (probably 8 years old) came over and just stood there, looking at me.  I said hi, asked her name and told her mine.  I told her that I was studying Spanish.  Almost immediately I was completely surrounded by children.  I think eight in total.  The children in Esteli are currently on summer holidays.  They return to school on Monday.  I was able to chat with them a little... asked their names, ages (ranging from 7 to 11) and if they were happy to return to school.  In return, they asked where I was from, about my family and how long I was in Esteli.  I couldnt understand a word they were saying so I took out my electronic dictionary (on my Kindle) and asked them to spell it.  They were completely fascinated by my Kindle.  I let them put in words in Spanish and told them the corresponding words in English.  They stayed for about half an hour and asked if they could come back again.  I am currently downloading some simple English childrens books onto my Kindle to show them.  I do hope they come back (I think they will).

I was thinking that once I learned more spanish I might volunteer here in a school or something with children.  I do not think I will wait.  Spending that time with them and with the young people last night has brightened my day and opened my heart.  There is just something about children... the openness, the curiousity, the delight, the joy... that makes my word so much better.  On Monday I will explore volunteer options.  It is just what I need!

This afternoon I am going to Las Casita... an amazing garden area... to study some more.

Its a good day!

Friday, 10 February 2012

just another post...

I feel like life is settling into somewhat of a regular routine.  Up at 5 (with the roosters) I usually read or study for a couple of hours.  I shower (did I mention that there is NO hot or even warmish water).  I eat breakfast.  I go to school for 8am.  The walk to and from school is getting easier (2 mountains each way).  My leg muscles no longer ache and the blisters on my feet are starting to heel.  At school my teacher and I spend 2 hours chatting.  I use the word chatting rather lightly.  Its more like she asks me questions and I use an incredible amount of energy and force squeezing out word after word (for the first time ever I have verbal constipation).  It is, I admit, getting easier.  I have now learned how to speak in the past and future tenses.  Conversations are limited significantly when we can only talk about what is happening right now.  I sit.  I study. I drink water.  I go to the bathroom.

After school I make the trekk home for lunch.  After lunch I either have a siesta, read, study, go for a walk, study some more.  The order varies but essentially that is my day.  Soon I think I will be ready to be a bit more adventureous.  Im hoping this weekend to find something interesting to do.  Perhaps I will have something more exciting to post on Sunday... but for now... I miss my family terribly.  I even miss the annoying things (not that any of them are too annoying).  I miss having Jordans warmth and love at my side when I sleep... I miss Hopes good night hug... I even have moments of missing Meran and Mashalls constant chatter and never ending questions.  Functioning in a language that is not mine has given me such an interesting perspective on relationships and communicating. 

Until next time...  my love, as always!

Monday, 6 February 2012

a few photos

My first night in Nicaragua... a hotel in Managua

.The drive to Esteli...

My new home...

the kitchen...


the stove...

the backyard (2 mango trees and a banana tree)...

the view on my way to school...


my school...

my teacher Fatima...

my favorite hangout...


the market...




a neighbor...

the guys doing amazing art teaching about their culture...

the mountain...

the mountain carver...

the cow who´s husband stampeded us...

the rooster on the bus...

the guy who works on the bus and was intrigued by my tattoo...

Sunday, 5 February 2012

a rooster on the bus and a cockroach in the bathroom

AND I SURVIVED!  more details in a moment...

Ive had a very adventurous, fun and exhausting weekend.  Yesterday morning bright and early (530) I took a taxi (by myself) to the bus station where I met up with another Canadian woman who is also visiting Nicaragua.  She was taking classes last week at the Spanish school and is now heading out to visit other parts.  She is French and Canadian and Australian too.   A lovely person who, fortunately for me, is much for fluent in Spanish.  We hopped on a bus (a retired Canadian school bus) and headed to Visey, appromately 2 hours by bus.  Im not sure of the actual distance as there were times, climbing the steep mountain, when I could have easily hopped out and ran faster than we were driving. 

Visey is an organic farm (with vegetable gardens, coffee plants, chickens, cows) and a tourist sight.  We hired a guide to show us some of the best parts.  We began with a mountain climb.  After about 20 steps I felt like I was going to die.  The guide, who obviously takes good care of his body, was a fast walker.  My out of shape body, along with my inadequate footwear, made it difficult for me to climb the slippery undergrowth and rocky terrain.  I did tell him that I was from the flatlands and not used to climbing mountains but I think he understood me to say "could ya speed it up a bit".   I did, however, make it up the mountain... and it was well worth the effort.  Nothing but majestic mountains for as far as I could see.  A God filled moment.   Going down the mountain wasnt a whole lot easier than going up.  I was at great risk of slipping and had my toes clenched inside my sneakers the entire time.  By the time I was back at the bottom, the ends of my toes felt bruised.  This took approximately 2 hours... we werent even close to finished.  Next, he led us up and down the hilly terrain to a small community.  Not sure how long we walked for as I think I lost consciousness about half way there.  In this village we visited a local artist who created amazing sculptures out of hardened volcanic ash.  I purchased a small piece for my beloved.   Next, we visited the local cheese making place and learned about the long and very complicated process of making cheese.  They do not have the fancy equipment that we have to do the work.  It is a very very labor intensive process.

After a brief rest we headed back into the mountain to the home of an elderly man by the name of Alberto.  Alberto is also an artist.  He has created an oasis in the middle of the mountain scape by carving intricate etchings into the mountain side.  Each carving tells a story... mostly about the history and culture of his people.  Amongst the rock carvings are astounding plants, pineapple and other fruit trees, wood carvings and a hand built staircase (thank God!).  We trekked slowing up the mountain looking at his work as he spoke with great passion and pride.  He envisioned this oasis when he was 8 years old and has spent the last 60 years or so making it a reality.

We thanked Alberto, said adios and began our long walk back to the farm.   After another hour or so of uphill downhill movement, we arrived at the restaurant.  Approximately 5 hours of walking in total.  Our guide, Donaldo, didnt break a sweat (and neither did my companion who is close to 20 years my elder).  I, however, felt like I was going to have a cardiac arrest.  It was worth every minute of it.  After a week of intense brain activity, it felt really good to move my body.  We finished our time with a wonderful meal of fried chicken, rice, beans, tortilla and an amazing fruit drink.   Finally, we ventured back to the road to wait for our bus. 

It was at this point that we were stampeded by a massive bull. As we sat, waiting for the bus, a young fellow came down the road on horseback directing two bulls.  One massive brown one and another smaller back one.  The big brown guy looked up at a group of teenage girls sitting on a rock and decided that he wanted to take that route instead.  He turned and started running up the hill to where we were sitting.   The girls jumped up screaming and ran.  The bull just continued on his way up the hill (I think he was having himself a good laugh).  I would estimate that the bull was about 8 feet from where I was sitting.  I think I appeared brave and calm through the whole ordeal but the truth is that I temporarily died from panic and was only resuscitated as the result of a miracle.

The bus ride home was mostly entertaining.  My friend and I were sitting at the front of the bus.  The young man working on the bus was intrigued by the tattoo on my arm (I havent yet seen any women with a tattoo here).  He showed me the tattooes on his arms and indicated that we were amigos now.  He kept speaking to me in very amusing English.  He knew how to say "hello", "how are you?" and "nice to meet you".  I was trying to teach him to say "Saskatoon, Saskatchewan".  It was greatly amusing.  The driver at the bus told me that the young man was a smelly monkey.  At least I think thats what he said.  Not sure what it meant.

Part way through the bus  ride home a man got on with a rooster.  Interestingly, earlier that day I told my friend that Im afraid of roosters and chickens (scary past experience).  So this guy gets on with his rooster and stands right in front of me so that the rooster is (Im not kidding) a foot away from my face.  It just sat there, staring at me with its beady red eyes (they really are ugly creatures).  My friend asked the man if it was his pet (reasonable question since the rooster was laying calmly in his arms and he was petting it lovingly).  The man told her that he was taking the rooster into the city for a "cock fight".... a rooster fight til the death.  Im glad I was too afraid to punch him.  

I arrived at the bus station at about 430... exhausted but content with my day.  I went outside to catch a taxi (not sure why, but a completely nerve racking experience for me).   After stopping 4 taxis, indicating where I needed to go, and being turned down 4 times (not sure why... maybe I was too smelly from the hard work and humidity).   Frustrated and anxious... I gave up and began the long, uphill walk to my home.  I have never been so happy to arrive anywhere.  I must have looked like quite a sight because when I walked in the door Lucilla and Nueves laughed.   I kicked off my shoes (only 3 blisters) and plopped onto the chair.  Lucilla immediately put a plate of chicken, rice, beans and tortilla in front of me and brought me a stool for my much swollen feet.   At 730 I was ready for bed.

Before retiring for the evening I visited the bathroom.   Pants down... on the toilet... I look to my left and there, about 4 inches from my knee is a cockroach.  My very first cockroach siting.   I managed to not pee all over the seat... calmly finished my business, cleaned up, pulled up and got the hell out of there (I have no idea where all of this bravery is coming from).

And that, my friends, was the end of my day.  Today was much less interesting... thank God!

blessings!!!

Thursday, 2 February 2012

beans beans beans... everywhere beans

It´s been almost one week since I departed Saskatoon.  I am starting to adjust to my life in Nicaragua.  I managed to sleep in this morning until almost 6.  Everything comes to life here at around 530... when the loudest rooster ever lets out a great holler, soon followed by an echoed response by every other rooster within a 20 mile radius.  This, of course, gets the dogs howling, the cats hissing, the music turned on and soon people are out on the street.   Until last night, I had been waking up at about 3.  I´ve already completed 2 of the books I brought to read (on my Kindle... I LOVE my Kindle).  Waking up early really isn´t a problem though.  Life here is a completely different pace than in Saskatoon.  My day consists of school from 8 until noon.  Lunch.  Siesta.  Homework.  A stroll around the city.  More homework.  Internet Cafe.  A visit with my new friend (I´ll tell more later) and bed at around 9.  It´s a flow I could get quite used to.   Does it seem like I´m doing alot of homework (where is the bloody question mark on this computer..)  The studies are incredibly intense.  One on one classes with the expectation that I will do alot of work on my own.  Lots of vocabulary memorization and writing exercises.  Yesterday I had to write about my family and home in Saskatoon.  Today I had to write a story in the present tense.  I now know more about personal pronouns, reflexive pronouns, indirect object pronouns etc etc than I ever did in English.

I have worked up the courage to do some wandering around the market.  I even managed to negotiate the purchase of a small backpack and a pen. Me.. Yo no hablo espanol.  Necessito un pluma.  Store guy... you need a pen (insert question mark here).   Once I had a pen in hand I stopped at a store to buy a backpack (the over the shoulder bag I brought with me is killing my back).  I managed to explain what I was looking for and asked the woman how much (cuanto cuesto).  However, I couldnt understand her response.  She was kind enough to write the amount on a piece of paper for me.

The main street and market are really quite over stimulating and amazing at the same time.  Unlike Saskatoon, the merchandise is all out on the sidewalk, along with vendors selling various foods.  The fresh fruit and vegetables are outstanding.  I have some great photos that I will share as soon as I figure out how to do that.

I continue to feel very welcomed in the home I am living in (except for their pet parrot living in a cage in the backyard.  Everytime I approach it starts screaming at me).  I´m even trying to make friends with the wee mouse that is trying to make a home there too.  I havent yet encountered any disgusting bugs or other creepy crawling things but I know its only a matter of time.  One of the other students at my school found a massive cockroach in the bathroom sink ( she indicated that it was about the size of her hand).

My body is starting to adjust to teh significant diet change.  My diet consists primarily of beans and rice with the occasional egg, cheese, chicken or pork.  For breakfast... beans, tortilla and an egg.  For lunch... beans, rice, tortilla, sometimes a plantain, and cheese (fried) or chicken or pork.  For supper... beans, rice (mixed together) and a tortilla.  Occasionally there will be some other form of starchy vegetable (potato, a turnipy type thing).  I am, however, eating lots of fresh fruit.  Yum yum.  The family I am staying with are very poor.  I have decided that I will not go out to a restaurant or purchase food on the side in honor of them (if they can´t eat it, I´m not going to).  I probably could go to the market and purchase food to bring home, but I don´t want Lucilla to think that I´m not happy or unappreciative of her hospitality.  In other words, I don´t want to offend them.   Anyway, I´m fine with things the way they are.

They are a poor family in finances but rich in hospitality and warmth.  They have made me feel so very comfortable.  Karla calls every day from Managua to check on me.  I do not feel, in any way, as though I am suffering.  Quite the contrary.

So my new friend.  The other day a man stopped by to fix a door in the house.  He spoke to me and I said my standard... no hablo espanol.   He replied in English.  His English is only slightly better than my Spanish but its enough for us to communicate.  He wants to learn English.  I´m learning Spanish.  He has been coming over in the evenings to help me with my homework and I, in turn, am helping him with his English.  His name is Alberto.  It feels good to know someone.  To have an amigo.

And that´s it for now.  My fingers are sore and I´m getting frustrated with this mixed up keyboard (or maybe its me thats mixed up.... I can never tell for sure)

So blessings once again!

Laura